INTO THE HEART OF DARKNESS: An Amazon cruise through a Peruvian jungle that few have seen THE INSIDE PASSAGE: The icy landscape of Alaska’s southeast—a photo essay WATER WORLD: From Kerala to Manipur, India’s protected Ramsar sites are thriving with diverse animal and bird life SECRET SEAPORTS: Six European towns—in Malta, Norway, France, Estonia, Poland, and Croatia—prove small is beautiful JOURNEYS IN A MALGUDI STATE OF MIND: A writer explores south India looking for R.K. Narayan’s fi ctional Indian town